Bird news by Leslie Hurteau. All images copyright of Leslie Hurteau.
During spring migration in South Korea, most birders head towards the islands off the west and south coasts of the country. This is where a majority of the interesting bird sightings can be found, including rarities and even national firsts. I made a plan to visit the somewhat underbirded Chuja Island a bit more often this spring, rather than spend most of my time on the very popular (and well-deserved in its popularity) Mara Island. Chuja Island is located roughly mid-way between the north of Jeju Island and the south of the Korean mainland. Technically it composed of two islands connected by a small bridge, Hachuja 하추자 the eastern island and Sangchuja 상추자 the western island, but generally referred to as simply Chuja Island. The location is on the southern edge of the main larger islands on the south coast of the mainland, with the sea southwards to Jeju being fairly deep waters with a variety of fish and other wildlife, including birds of course. While I did get to visit the island several times through spring, the highlight visit was at the end of April with plenty of birds on the island and two really great seabirding sessions on the ferry there and back.
The morning ferry to Chuja started off quite well with Streaked Shearwaters making a quick appearance. About one quarter into the journey, small groups of Crested Murrelets (also known as Japanese Murrelets) were seen as well, with up to six individuals in total. The highlight however was a pair of Parasitic Jaegers in nice breeding plumage flying diligently eastwards early on in the ferry journey.
Once arriving at Hachuja (the eastern island), I got the sense that it was going to be a very birdy day. Many Barn and Red-rumped Swallows were flying around the harbour, as well as Pacific Swifts higher above. Within moments of walking down the road I spotted a Blue Rock Thrush on top of a building, which was an all blue male of the subspecies pandoo. I ran into two younger Korean birders around this area (a bit of a surprise for me), who said they were on the island for a few days and saw a total of 100 species throughout their stay. Walking around the nearby wetland and adjacent fields, there were a variety of buntings, including Yellow, Tristam’s, Little, and Yellow-browed.
A short bus journey to Sangchuja (the western island), and the bird activity was just as good. Flycatchers, such as Asian Brown and Narcissus, more buntings, thrushes singing, and a sky filled with swallows and Pacific Swifts. Leaf Warblers were fairly numerous as well, with both Sakhalin and Pale-legged heard and seen, Yellow-browed, and Eastern Crowned. A Black Wood Pigeon was heard crooning from the forested hills, unfortunately left unseen.
I returned to the eastern island, and began my usual hike along the trail to the reservoir, and then followed the ridge up along eastwards until descending down to the harbour again. Once again plenty of buntings and Leaf Warblers, and a few more Black Wood Pigeons heard and encountered briefly. New birds for the trip along the trail included Black-naped Oriole and an Eyebrowed Thrush. Starlings were fairly abundant in the harbour village as I waited for the return ferry.
On the return ferry, two more Crested Murrets and an Ancient Murrelet, a few Barn Swallows, and a group of Red-necked Phalaropes. A Tristram’s Bunting landed briefly on deck, which promptly flew off while switching from my binoculars to my camera. About one third in the voyage got really interesting. The boat began to move through a constant stream of Streaked Shearwaters heading eastwards. This stream continued for about 20 minutes or so, and while the density appeared low, it soon began apparant this was a few thousand individuals by the end of it. Tucked away was a Flesh-footed Shearwater that I managed to spot and get poor record shots of: a smaller all dark shearwater with quicker windbeats, and a visible light pink bill with a dark tip. During this passing of shearwaters, I looked up and noticed a bird flying much higher with direct and purposeful flight straight east. After examining the photos I realized it was a full-breeding plumage Long-tailed Jaeger complete with the long tail feathers. Later on in the journey two more jaagers were seen, one of which was definitely another Long-tailed, with the other being likely given the size and movement but unable to 100% confirm.
Nearing Jeju City harbour, the bird activity dropped drastically and just like that the day was done and sorted. It was definitely one of the most memorable trips to Chuja I have taken. While the island itself was good, the real treasure of birding there is the long slow ferry ride there and back, with full access to the deck allowing for excellent seabirding opportunities. I’m looking forward to the autumn visits already.
